Home to the fabled table of questionable writers who roamed the streets looking for delights other than culinary ones, I shall strictly base my case studies on delicious plates of food. Confessing straight out the gate that I am not a manic Moroccan food lover, finding the flavours and variety quite muted and repetitive, however, I did find some delicious dreams in a city of many nightmares.
As usual, click the photos for google map links.
WHERE TO EAT IN TANGIER
Hands down the best food I ate in Morocco, ironic that it's a Syrian place. Be prepared for the longest of wait times even if there is nobody there, I think the kitchen operates in slow motion.
With views of the harbour through smokey windows, La Comedia provides tasty kofte tagines in a location away from the touts and tourist throngs.
If you are looking for a traditional tagine in Tangier, then head to Ahlen and sink your teeth into a fragrant, pleasant plate of food.
CHEZ HASSAN BAB
If you're a germ-a-phobe, try not to watch the chef preparing the food, he is very "hands-on". However the food coming out of the kitchen is delicious and you are greeted with a huge smile when you enter.
This was a bright spot on a culinary monotone rainbow, though the prices are nothing to sniff at. Indian food made in clean environs set to remind you of better times.
With lungs full of nicotene entrails you sit in the huddled chairs, sip your coffee, and dream of the nostalgic passing of wisdom within these walls.
No visit to Tangier is true until you have sipped tea on the wonderful balconies and patio's of Cafe Hafa, staring across to mainland Europe.
The Rolling Stones came here, so should you.
Most days I can be found drinking coffee and talking to locals at this famous place. Sure there are throngs of annoying people walking past, but after a few days they remember you and leave you alone.
CAFE BAB AL FAH
Rub shoulders with mysterious shadows that danced with Paul Bowles and Burroughs.
GRAN CAFE DE PARIS
A staple in the Tangiers cafe scene. No visit is complete without a mint tea and people-watch session.
Catch a film or simply sit in the charming cafe area and talk about African cinema.
If you can't afford to stay here, then at least drop by for a drink on the terrace. The views at night are stunning.
These recommendations are just personal opinions based on my palate, things change, chefs get fired or replaced, places open-close, relocate, so take it all with a pinch of MSG and discover your own gems too. But please do try a few of these, they have been researched exhaustively.
"Tastes are subjective, so take everything with a pinch of salty tears"
CITIES / Places