A GUIDE TO EATING IN NAPOLI

"There's more to Napoli than the memory of Maradona."

The task of compiling a guide to Italy's third largest city is real. Where do you even begin? Choose a specific suburb and cover that first? Try a bit of everything and come to a consensus? Scour the internet for juicy tips and "insider spots"?

My approach was to wait until I had been there a few times, spent a decent amount of time, and listened to very reliable sources for recommendations. As far as things go, it's inevitable that hundreds of great places will be missed in this list because one man can only eat so much in his lifetime, but I shall try to filter out the places that stood out from the crowd and would be worth trying if you are only here for a limited time.

Pizza I already covered in my extensive huntings here so i'll just put a couple of obvious ones and leave the intrepid pizza lusters to read the more detailed blog entry.

For now we'll settle for a whole range of cultures and cuisines, cafes, parks and the odd bar even tho I gave up imbibing years ago. 

CLICK ON PHOTOS FOR GOOGLE MAP LOCATION

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Food spots

​antica trattoria da carmine

Smack bang in the middle of "hell-ville" street where you are constantly harrassed by street sellers is this phenomenal eatery. Do not miss out on a meal here, even if you are told you have to wait for a table. The arancino and melanzane are fantastic, but their spaghetti vongole and pasta with provola and potato is another level!

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​tandem ragu

If you're looking to eat Ragu in Naples, come here. Full stop

Tip: If you're on the go then stop by one of their take-away stores and order the amazing Cuzzetielo !

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​da attilio

It's hard to find a bad pizza in Naples, but it's very difficult to find one better than at Da Attilio. 

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​CIBI COTTI

If authentic is what you're after, then you don't get more real than Cibi Cotti. This favourite haunt for the elderly, helmed by a charming nonna at the cash register, the rest of the family behind the counter, tucked in the far corner of the market, serves home-style food for a pittance. It won't be the most mindblowing meal you eat in Naples, but it might be the most memorable.

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​Bop Dumplings

Materdei holds many secrets, and one of the best kept ones is Bop! If you get a chance, take the metro up here and try the phenomenal dumplings carefully handmade in this small shop. With street "dining" and a fridge full of craft beers and kombucha, this is the spot the locals congregate.

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​Pescheria Azzurra

No visit to Napoli is complete without grabbing a cone of "Frito Misto" at this legendary spot.

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​Ghi Rice

For those staying longer than a token weekend, steer clear of the other Indian restaurants in town if you have cravings, and head to Ghi Rice for superb South Indian food and friendly service. 

Tip: Try their Masala Dosa

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​Salumeria upnea

Bordering on the trendy/hip side of life but churning out delicious food, this place came highly recommended by many locals and definitely fit the bill.

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​CICCIOTTO dal 1942

A daytrip to Marechiaro is a splendid use of your time and resources, and if you happen to be down this way then try the Spaghetti with Sea Urchin at Cicciotto.

Warning: This is not kind on the wallet!

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​Attanasio

There is perhaps no better place in town than here to grab a classic Sfogliatella (get the crispy one). The line is permanent, the quality is consistent, the taste is epic.

Tip: If you are near Quartieri Spagnoli then try Sfogliatella Mary, they are also amazing.

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​concettina ai tre santi

I know none of you are going to actually click on the link to the pizza article, so I had to sneak one more in here. This family run pizzeria in Rione Sanita is one of the best pizza's you'll eat in your life. Hands down gold.

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​Mimì alla Ferrovia

If walls could speak. This ageing relic of Napoli cuisine still stands strong in the seedy alleys around Central Station. Expect fast and polite service, tasty food and tons of nostalgia. 

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​Prasanna Star

The Sri Lankan game is strong in Napoli, and there are few places you can get such a cheap, delicious, spicy lunch or dinner as here. Another bonus for visiting this "slightly" out of the main drag restaurant is the surrounding area is delightful for exploring.

Tip: Try the beef curry with string hoppers and ask for their home-made dry chilli paste.

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​Un Sorriso Integrale

Quite the mouthful, pun intended, but this hidden little vegetarian/vegan restaurant changes their menu based on seasonal delights and keeps a strict no-meat policy. Expect a few quirky dishes and a loyal clientele.

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​12o grammi

Budget travellers? We got you covered. Apart from the thousands of Pizza Portofoglio you can get for under 2 Eur, you might want to try this wildly popular takeaway. Tasty spaghetti, large portions and pretty quick turn-around times make this a regular haunt for nearby university students.

​With an average price of 5-6 Eur you can see why this gets a lot of foot traffic.

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​D'Ausilio

There's no getting around the fact that sometimes you just want a damn burger. Well, if you're dying to sink your teeth into some premium beef and top quality ingredients, look no further. This butcher shop/burger takeout allows you to choose from a wide range of patties or head into the butcher shop and pick your own blend. Prices are slightly higher than normal, but the extra cents are definitely well spent. 

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Cafes / Sights

​Spazio Nea

Situated on the lively Piazza Bellini, but tucked away in the corner, is this perfect midday sunspot to enjoy a coffee and some peace and quiet. For aperitivo enthusiasts, the square boasts numerous watering holes to get your cheap spritz fest on. 

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​Museo Hermann Nitsch

If you like your offal as art instead of in your sandwich, then this is the place for you. Hermann Nitsch has a strange love affair with Napoli, and this museum should be at the top of your list. 

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​Pasticceria poppella

With multiple locations around town, my favourite is in Rione Sanita where you can order a couple of mouthwatering Fiocchi di Neve, a coffee, and street-watch.

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​LA FESSERIA

Precariously perched in a narrow lane where scooters skim past your legs with milimeters to spare lies this gem of a local cocktail bar. Being a non-imbiber I was surprised how gracious the bartender was in making me a non-alcoholic drink which tasted pretty damn good!

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​Fantasia Gelati

My bet for the best Gelato in Naples. 

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​mexico

This mini-chain has a few branches around town, and is where I invariably end up for a solid, strong cup of coffee. They take their brew very seriously.

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​Il Giardino di Babuk

Tucked away on a tiny street near the centre of Rione Sanita lies a peculiar secret garden. Hidden away from roving eyes, accessible only by appointment, this beautiful 1000 square meter yard hides a wealth of history and mystery. This quiet idyll is operated and cared for by the caretaker Gennaro Oliveiro.

Call for appointments: +39-338-625-5810 (10 eur entrance fee)

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​Vintage By Sun Ra

If you're on the hunt for odds and ends to bring to an "Eyes Wide Shut" themed party, then this is your spot. The gentleman who runs the place has exemplary taste in music too.

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​Palazzo venezia

Part gallery - part cafe, this hidden gem on one of the most popular streets in Naples is the perfect place to rest your weary legs. The back garden has ample space with shade or sunny spots to sip your coffee. Either walk into the main entrance and take the tight staircase up, or walk up the wider stairs to the left, into the main house and round to the garden.

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​Santa FEDe Liberata

This art commune / dilapidated courtyard serves as a meeting place for a host of irregulars. They organise all sorts of events and are closed when nothing is on so be sure to check their facebook page before venturing over. Expect a lot of people smoking rollies, dusty sixpences and token dogs.

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hERCULANEUM

Intrepid travellers will probably choose Pompei (worth it) over Herculaneum if pressed for time, but the site deserves some credit. Pair it with a morning visit to the fantastic vintage stores that line Via Pugliano in Ercolano and you've got yourself a winning combination.

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These recommendations are just personal opinions based on my palate, things change, chefs get fired or replaced, places open-close, relocate, so take it all with a pinch of MSG  and discover your own gems too. But please do try a few of these, they have been researched exhaustively.