Pizza in Napoli, Ramen in Tokyo, Braai in Cape Town, all of us have our bucketlists when it comes to food. A tapas bar-hopping expedition in Seville has to be near the top of most food adorers itinerary. Being an international asshole, I had the luxury of getting my tips directly from a chef who lived and worked in Seville, and therefore had connections and insider information to divulge.
I booked five nights in the beautiful Andalucian city and went about planning my days according to the locations of the restaurants on google maps. Tackling certain neighborhoods or streets in order so as not to back-track, I managed to eat at every place on my list, and it was worth every single step and calorie. The restaurants were nicely split up into "must see" spots which are on many tourist lists, simply because they are legendary or historical, along with some "hidden gems" that would take a more discerning hunt to find.
Below are the Tapas spots I visited with a special mention of the "Must Eat" in each place according to my informant. Much, much love and thanks to Irene Vinyoles for this amazing info.
(Click on the photos for a google map link)
Often you are told to start at the very beginning, and El Rinconcillo IS the very beginning. Open in 1670, this is the oldest tapas bar in Seville and the interiors do not betray it's origins. Stepping in is literally like taking a walk back a hundred years, and some of the waiters look like they've been working there that long. Head up to the bar counter, order some Jamon and Croquettas and mingle with the mix of tourists and locals.
Pop by this ragingly popular local place for a couple of Montadito's before pounding the side-walk onto further ambitions. Don't miss out on their speciality, the Pringa.
If imbibing under the watchful gaze of a thousand christ and maria photos is your idea of a good time, then head to Ricardo's and do just that.
DOS DE MAYO
A behemoth of food production, the perfectly located Dos De Mayo offers inside-outside dining and has a great "Daily Special" list hanging above the bar. The octopus here is particularly good.
ABACERIA DE SAN LORENZO
A short walk from Ricardo's, and boasting a slightly higher pricepoint than the regular Tapas bars, this is where you really taste where the extra Euro's are going. The food is meticulously prepared, sourced and served. Highly recommended is the bean stew with black sausage.
Another place that time forgot, located in the crosshairs of the old town and royal palace, head here for some jamon and chickpea & spinach.
Brazillian chef Freddy churns out an international mix of flavours from this tiny kitchen at Mercado de Feria. Daily specials and addictive favourites such as Pan De Queso and their legendary Arepa's keep happy customers returning year after year. The service is exceptional and you leave feeling like a part of the family.
These recommendations are just personal opinions based on my palate, things change, chefs get fired or replaced, places open-close, relocate, so take it all with a pinch of MSG and discover your own gems too. But please do try a few of these, they have been researched exhaustively.
"Sadness is tempered by umami, grief by the motion of slurping, hope restored in the ladling of glistening, fatty broth"
CITIES / Places